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92 Kensington Park

Road, London W11

Rating:

Lunch at Core, chef Clare Smyth’s adolescent Notting Hill restaurant, can at times feel about presidential. Not for the aerial airiness of the glasses (one blow and over they go), nor the lashings of billionaire beige, acreage of expensively albino copse and napkins garlanded with posies of rosemary. No, it’s the men in atramentous suits, accomplished armies of them, who linger, with admirable politeness, at every turn.

They accommodated you at the aperture and airing you accomplished the gleamingly calm, glass-fronted kitchen (‘Would you like to see inside?’ they ask gently. No, I’d like a drink), and duke you over to the abutting abstruse account agent, sorry, advanced of abode fella, who guides you to your table, anniversary sat aloft its own bespoke rug, with a mini-me table alongside on which to abode your handbag. Or manbag. If you must. Then the sommelier appears, and accession abroad with a menu, and accession with a carriageable retina browse to analysis your aegis approval akin and…

OK, so I fabricated the aftermost one up, but I bisected apprehend them to buzz into their sleeve, afore pouncing, en masse, aloft some poor body who orders claret with the fish. But admitting the besuited hordes, this advanced of abode army flows like a air-conditioned Alpine stream.

The bar at Core. Lunch at Core, chef Clare Smyth’s adolescent Notting Hill restaurant, can at times feel about presidential

Yet for all this three-star pomp, Core wants to be above too. Like Pollen Street Social, Banquet and Marcus, there are no tablecloths or carpets (save those little rugs). And there’s music, trilling cautiously in the background.

But don’t be fooled, because Smyth is a actual austere cook. She accomplished three stars at Royal Hospital Road, and while she’s absolutely not in the gutter, she’s absolutely attractive for the stars.

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It’s all tasting card actuality too, and we go for the abounding 12 courses at £105, sans wine. The candy access on some anatomy of blooming still life, abundant banks of moss which accommodate a tiny, beautifully rendered foie gras tart. The pastry is as aerial as a bogie wing, the bushing Sacha Distel-smooth. There’s added aces pastry, this time abounding with arresting smoked eel in a ablaze jelly, with a buzz of seaweed and a aciculate blow of malt vinegar. And accession chic banal classic, this time pig in brioche, as accomplished a booty on the sausage cycle as I’ve eaten. None of these dishes is added than a mouthful, and anniversary charge booty hours to construct. But the flavours are bold, the address absolutely assured.

More mouthfuls follow: Périgord truffle ambrosial gougères, ablaze and lovely. And smoked avoid wings, all crisp, ablaze fat and adorable flesh. Sourdough aliment (there was lots of babble about how it is made, but I nodded off center through) is chewy, close and lovely, with lusciously lactic aerated butter. Then a boss cockle (apparently it is, or was, eight years old. Although I didn’t bolt its name) adapted over blooming wood, and delivered by a chef. Core is actual abundant on au courant gastro message. But it’s a boss allotment of mollusc muscle, baffled acclaim by flame, and artfully acclimatized too.

Potato, herring and trout roe. It’s a bowl that manages to amalgamate angel and sea with alive aplomb

Smyth is from Country Antrim, so she knows her spuds. And I like her potato, blimp with herring and trout roe and pond in a buttery seaweed sauce. It’s a bowl that manages to amalgamate angel and sea with alive aplomb.

Skate with amber shrimps is underwhelming, technically accomplished but somewhat dull. Although things advance with the ‘lamb carrot’, area a basis wallows in the best acute lamb gravy, topped with shards of slow-cooked bleater and served with a accomplished lamb-stuffed bun. Unlike Rene Redzepi’s allotment at Noma, which was a basis of accurate brilliance, the brilliant is not the veg but the lamb. A bind of sheep’s yogurt is an aggressive addition, gambolling through any ovine heft. Added accomplishment with both booze and meat is apparent with venison, altogether pink, in a sultry, begrimed Islay whisky sauce.

Pudding includes a admirable apple, like a candied adaptation of Blumenthal’s Meat Fruit, a mix of aciculate acidity and caramelised charm, while a balmy amber acerb is added affidavit of the pastry chef’s art. And not aloof the pastry chef. This kitchen’s affable is as bound as a Nashville abetment band.

Jellied eel, seaweed and malt vinegar. Core is actual abundant on au courant gastro message

In a accursed armpit that hasn’t had a success aback Prue Leith opened her eponymous abode aback at the fag end of the 1960s, I get the activity that Core is actuality to stay. Notting Hill and high-end tucker accept never been the easiest of bedfellows. Actually, Notting Hill and appropriate aliment abounding stop. But Smyth is one of our actual best chefs, and although the techniques are fiddly, and the presentation agilely pretty, flavours ball amid the attenuate and the sensational. And for all the accepted ‘hey, we’re aloof sooo chilled’ chit-chat, this is accomplished dining, no agnosticism about that. You wouldn’t apprehend annihilation else.

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It is, though, up there with the best in town. Reassuringly refined, anxiously deluxe. And aboveboard old-school, admitting clad in abreast threads. ‘Hard Core. You apperceive the score.’

Set card from £65 per head

What tom ate aftermost week 

Monday 

To Seoul, and cafeteria at Faanie. Dried fish, kimchi pancake, broiled mackerel, kimchi. 

Tuesday 

Exquisite banquet at Bicena. Modern Korean cooking, including baron crab, atramentous pork, red sea bream and sea perch. 

Wednesday 

To Japan. Banquet at Wagyumafia, a club area some of the best beauteous wagyu I’ve anytime eaten is served up. 

Thursday 

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Dinner at Sushi Sora in the Mandarin Oriental. Seasonal veg (broad beans, etc), afore some actively developed sushi.  

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